The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals. Michael Pollan. New York: Penguin, 2006.
Read this book, and you may never look at food in quite the same way again. Michael Pollan has looked very closely at our food, and sees extensive health, environmental, and ethical implications in our food-production system, and in our food choices.
Journalist Pollan has followed 4 meals from their origins to the plate. He addresses questions of food politics and food economics, and in tracking the origins of a fast-food meal, he documents the alarming extent to which our food consists of highly-processed corn grown in monocultures disastrous to the natural world and to our health, and fed to us as well as to the animals we eat.
The results of this food system are the packaged products full of mysterious and unpronounceable ingredients cramming grocery stores, as well as the burgers, fries and sodas churned out by fast-food outlets. The notion of “corn-fed beef” sounds so terribly wholesome… until Pollan explains that cows are built to eat grass, and don’t readily digest corn. And check that bottle of “green tea” you pick up because it sounds all healthy and natural… it might be full of high fructose corn syrup, a highly-processed corn sweetener long on calories and short on nutrition.
We do, however, have other options, as Pollan makes clear. Farmers markets are springing up everywhere, making it possible to buy locally-grown produce and even eggs and meat, and to know where at least some of our own food is coming from. Organic foods are increasingly visible in supermarkets, but there are caveats to consider. Supermarkets clearly get the attractiveness of labels like ‘organic’ and ‘natural’, but the variety of claims made on foods can be mind-boggling: eggs alone might claim to be ‘cage-free’, ‘high in omega-3’, ‘organic’, and/or ‘from vegetarian-diet hens’, etc., all of which can mean different things, or not really mean much. Buy eggs at your local farm stand or farmer’s market, and you at least know where they came from.
Michael Pollan wants us to change the way we eat – for environmental, economic, moral, and health reasons, but also for lasting pleasure. “How and what we eat,” he says, “determines to a great extent the use we make of the world – and what is to become of it. To eat with a fuller consciousness of all that is at stake might sound like a burden, but in practice few things in life can afford quite as much satisfaction. … In the end this is a book about the pleasures of eating, the kinds of pleasure that are only deepened by knowing.” (p.11).
-Bonnie Figgatt
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